Offa’s Dyke Day 8.
Distance today: 24.7 miles.
Total distance: 961.6 miles.
Accommodation: hostel.
My last day on Offa’s Dyke (theoretically). I was up and across town before 7 o’ clock, too early to get a cup of tea and a phone charge at Wetherspoons but about right to catch the morning light as it lit up the impressive Wye Bridge which, to my layman’s eye, had a distinctly European look to it.
Today’s obligatory limber-up climb took me along a wooded trail and past the pleasingly cylindrical Round House which formed part of the Kymin. Thankfully, I think that was going to be the hardest ascent for the day. Back at the bottom of the hill, I reached the village of Redbrook and as I’d already been walking for a couple of hours, I decided to do what I’d yet to do on the whole trip so far. I was going to stop and make myself a brew. After I’d picked up some milk and a packet of Welsh cakes from the village store, I went to the small public park opposite, sat down on bench, boiled some water and made myself an actual in-transit cup of tea. Why had it taken me this long to appreciate what a lovely thing this was to do? If nothing else, it was a very nice way to force me take a breather.
It looked like today was going to be a day for bridges. As I climbed up the next hill I could the Penallt Viaduct back in Redbrook below me. After another 4 miles, the trail had returned to the side of the River Wye which was obviously cue for my next bridge, the elegantly simple Bigsweir Bridge. From here to Chepstow I was vaguely familiar with the route because Penny and I had stayed in a pretty little cabin nearby, back in 2019.
After following the river up until Brockweir – the location for the next interesting bridge – the route then takes you uphill to join the top path which you had the choice of starting back at the Bigsweir Bridge. You remember my saying I was vaguely familiar with the area? Well, any previous experience of the place was clearly not enough to prevent me getting lost. I was obviously so keen to climb another hill that I missed the turning and ended up going twice as high as I needed to. Bizarrely I ended up at a place that might be familiar to anyone who went to the (award-winning) Stroud Farmers Market. Madgett’s Farm sold anything and everything poultry related. I recognized the old guy who came out to offer me directions and I think he was a little bit in shock when I told him where I lived and what brought me to his part of the world. Armed with his directions, I then walked down the hill to hit upon the second coincidence. The route took me past the Beeches Farm Campsite and I’d stayed there a few years ago with Penny and her family. It was a lovely little campsite too.
Back on the trail, I convinced myself that I was nearly there. How deluded I was. I still had another 5 hours to go. It’s amazing how the memory plays tricks like that. Maybe it was just wishful thinking. I really struggled to grind out those last few miles. The wooded sections in particular seemed to go on and on. Ever the completist, I was determined to go to the very end of Offa’s Dyke even though I could have saved myself about 3 miles if I’d gone straight to Chepstow. But I’d done it. I’d finished a big section and I had the photo to prove it. I celebrated with a pint at the Wetherspoons in Chepstow.
I’d spoken to the people at Greenman Backpackers and although at the time there had only been a room available, they later rang me back so say someone had changed their plans so there was now a bed in a dorm if I wanted it. They didn’t have to do that so I thought it was a really nice gesture. Someone I’d met while walking had recommended the backpackers and I think they were right to do so. Everything was just done well. Bar, kitchen, facilities, and as a bonus, I ended up having the dorm to myself.
As tired as I was, I still went out in the evening because I had a need to satisfy a craving for pizza. Settled on the Stone Rock pizzeria and that definitely did the job.
