Chepstow to Bristol.
Distance today: 17.1 miles.
Total distance: 978.8 miles.
Accommodation: Airbnb.
I had a really a good night’s sleep and that was followed by my favourite kind of breakfast. Free. I do thoroughly recommend the Greenman Backpackers.
The first major landmark of the day was the Severn Bridge. It definitely feels a whole lot bigger when you’re walking rather than driving. It also marked the last time I would be in Wales for the rest of the trip. Diolch, Cymru.
The route I had planned to take me into Bristol would have followed an LDWA trail (Bristol to Brecon in reverse) but this didn’t take into account where I would be staying. My Airbnb search had ended up with me picking a place in Bishopston – nowhere near the trail. Lazily, I allowed Google to provide an alternative route and although it involved a fair amount of road walking, it did come as a welcome change from the foot-jarring slog along the uneven surfaces – not to mention all the up hills and down hills – of the Offa’s Dyke trail.
The route took me through the villages of Olveston, Tockington, and Almondsbury and then, after a brief cross country shortcut, I found myself skirting the training grounds of the North Bristol rugby club, not quite sure of how I got from there on to Gloucester Road. By chance there was a police dog handler out walking his Alsatian. As instructed, I waited until the dog was safely back in the car before approaching (the dog had definitely been eying me suspiciously). The officer duly gave me directions and given I probably looked slightly out of place, the conversation inevitably turned to what I was doing. And it is fair to say he was absolutely gobsmacked when I told him. Both by the scale of the trek and the surrealness of bumping into me in this random location. We chatting for a bit longer and then went our separate ways with him promising to sponsor me. As ever, when people appreciate what you do, it does give you a little boost to your day.
I carried on walking and I hadn’t got much further than about a quarter of a mile when I spotted a police car on the opposite side of the dual carriageway. I watched it as it then went round the roundabout and back up on my side of the dual carriageway before pulling up next to me. It was the same police officer and when he got out of the car I could see he had a big bag with him. He explained that he had originally bought some groceries for his wife but he was so inspired by what I was doing, he wanted me to have them if it would help me get down the road a few more miles. Wow. It was my turn to be stunned. It was a truly touching gesture. Once he’d gone I had a closer look in the bag, discovering it contained a big carton of orange juice, a couple of cans of fizzy drink, a punnet of strawberries, and some Babybel cheese. I had the makings of a picnic! I did then allow myself a wry smile as I decided that the officer clearly hadn’t thought about the extra weight I would now have to carry. It was a small price to pay.
Given that I had lived in the area for a year, I really should have found the Airbnb more easily. What can I say, my navigation skills have not improved. After my creative detour I eventually found the house and it was a nice Victorian terrace belonging to an older couple whose kids had since left home. Indeed, my room felt very homely. I had a brief chat with the owner before heading out to do some chores. Primarily, I wanted to pick up some new insoles I’d ordered from an Outdoors shop. I wouldn’t call it paranoia exactly but it did seem sensible to give my biomechanics the best chance possible of not breaking down. While I was there, I decided to treat myself to some Smartwool socks. A bit pricey – as these things are – but my existing socks were starting to get holes in the toes and that was only going to get more annoying. A 10% discount for being a member of the LDWA is always welcome.
Time for another pilgrimage. If ever you are in Bristol and you fancy a decent (flavoursome rather than fierce) curry, may I recommend the Thali Restaurant Montpelier. I went for my standard order of a vegetable thali and a mango lassi and it was absolutely delicious.
I walked back to the Airbnb and that was me pretty much done for the day. Unusually for me, even the idea of one beer didn’t appeal. I think I was still feeling fairly knackered. Happy but knackered.
As a final note, I have to say what a difference a day makes. Yesterday I was sweary and cranky because it all just felt relentless. Whereas today, the walking was easier, the weather was kinder, I treated myself to some retail therapy, and maybe the simple act of finishing one section and starting another was enough to lift my spirits. As was the generosity of strangers. Come On! We Can Do This.
